Things to do in Marrakech – Day one
The obvious way to start a holiday in Marrakech is by exploring the sights and souks of the medina and kasbah, or old walled town. The number one rule is don’t get scammed, and number two is don’t buy anything on the first day. Nothing! Well, food and drinks yes, but nothing else! Which brings us to rule number three: discover real Moroccan food. Not a tourist tagine, not bland couscous, but the actual food Moroccans eat.
The full guide is below, otherwise skip to:
Marrakech sights
Marrakech doesn’t have that many sights as such, and most are quite small and located near one another in the kasbah. This — plus very low entrance fees — means you can see a lot in a short time. Half the fun, however, is wandering around the medina streets. Pink walls, beautiful doors, souks, shops, and a constant flow of people, bikes, motorcycles and donkeys — it’s all a riot of colour and hustle, then suddenly you’re in a quiet alley, but even there you may need to step aside to let a horse-drawn cart speed by.
My top recommendations are:
- Ben Youssef Madrasa — the largest Islamic college in Morocco, with beautiful architecture.
- Saadian tombs — a mausoleum from the 16th century, also with beautiful architecture.
- Bahia Palace — another beautiful series of garden courtyards and rooms, built in the 19th century.
If you only have time for one of these, then my pick is the Ben Youssef Madrasa. If you’re near the tombs and palace, then you can also take in:
- Bab Agnaou — a huge and very impressive gate into the medina.
- Kasbah Mosque — located next to the Saadian tombs, but only open to Muslims.
- El Badi Palace — a ruined palace from the 16th century. I didn’t find it that interesting, except for the storks nesting on the old castle walls.
- The synagogue — the Jewish quarter and synagogue are interesting to walk around, if you have time. The old photos in the synagogue of Jews from different parts of Morocco are worth a look.
Then the other two major sights are:
- Koutoubia Mosque — located near Djemaa el Fna square, only open to Muslims.
- Jardin Majorelle — once owned by fashion designers Yves Saint-Laurent and Pierre Bergé, this garden is actually located outside the medina walls. We didn’t have time to visit it but it’s on the list for my next visit to Marrakech.
Marrakech souks
The medina has many small markets, but those around Djemaa el Fna square are the most well known — and cater the most — to tourists.
The square is a total circus, with snake charmers, henna painters, story tellers, dancers, and music. Many are tourist traps. Apart from the food stalls, I recommend keeping away from the various spectacles and instead using the square as your entry point into the souks.
Remember, don’t buy anything on the first day! Wander around, enjoy the colours and atmosphere, get your bearings, and see what’s for sale. That’s it. If you must, ask for some prices, but don’t engage in any bargaining. Many shops sell the same things, so don’t worry, you’re not going to miss out. And I promise, you’ll do much better with the bargaining once you have a better idea of what’s on offer — and are a little less dazzled by So. Many. Pretty. Things.
Google Maps works pretty well in the souks, so don’t worry too much about getting lost. And remember rule number 1: don’t follow anyone. If you get lost, ask another tourist or go inside a shop to ask the way.
Food glorious food
All that walking is going to make you hungry and thirsty. Djemaa el Fna square is ringed by several cafes and restaurants, many with terraces overlooking the square. These are perfectly pleasant, lovely even, but all cater for tourists.
A more authentic option is to sample the food stalls within the square. But the best option for discovering real Moroccan food is to join a food tour. For this, I highly recommend Marrakech Food Tours, run by husband and wife Youssef and Amanda.
We took the evening street food tour, which visits carefully selected restaurants and food stalls favoured by locals — who, it turns out, are very picky about their food, wanting it just like their mama makes it. We tried: tender slow-roasted lamb, savoury pancakes, the most incredible sardine balls, pastries, and much, much more. I’m not giving all the details because that would ruin the fabulous experience and surprises.
The delicious food is reason enough to join, but Youssef also provides a fascinating look into the way things were done for centuries — communal bread ovens, the guy who heats the hamman water and more. I cannot recommend this food tour more highly. You’ll discover a whole new world of insanely good Moroccan food and gain a much deeper appreciation of the souk and what’s behind some of the doors.
And the best thing? By doing a tour the first day, you’ll know where — and what — to eat after that.
