Hiking in Canada — Crypt Lake trail, Waterton Lakes National Park
So yes, there’s a ladder on a cliff. And a tunnel through the cliff. And some chains on the other side. And yes, it’s been called the “Indiana Jones adventure” of the Canadian Rockies. But unless you suffer from extreme vertigo, the Crypt Lake hike is actually a lovely day out — a good trail, beautiful views and not nearly as hair-raising as some descriptions make out.
Distance: ∼17.5 km
Difficulty: Moderate
Highest point: 1,950 m (Crypt Lake)
Height gain: +700 m/-700 m
We did it: July 2017
Watch the video for “tips” on how to survive — and read on for full details on this beautiful hike!
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► Photos ► How to get there ► Hiking trail description ► Where to stay & eat ► What to bring ► Dangers & annoyances ► Hiking trail map |
In addition to Indiana Jones, Crypt Lake is also marketed as Canada’s best hike and one of the most thrilling hikes in the world. We didn’t think it was either — but the marketing works. The trail is CROWDED. On the upside, 150+ people tramping through the forest means you’re unlikely to surprise any bears.
The lake sits high in a hanging valley in Waterton National Park, southern Alberta, right on the border of Glacier National Park in Montana, USA. You can walk into the USA … but you won’t get very far due to the massive cliffs circling the lake.
Waterton Lakes National Park is part of North America’s Rocky Mountains. The hike is one of three in the park that make up the Triple Crown Challenge — the other two being Alderson- Carthew (hike description coming soon) and Akamina Ridge.
Photos from our Crypt Lake hike
(more in the hiking trail description)
How to get there
The hike starts and ends at Crypt Landing, on the shore of Upper Waterton Lake across from the small town of Waterton.
There’s no public transport to or in Waterton, so the easiest way to come is by car. Alternatively, there’s a shuttle service from Calgary and a few other locations, and a Greyhound bus station in Pincher Creek, 30 minutes away — book a taxi in advance to get from the station to Waterton. You need a permit to enter Waterton Lakes National Park.
A boat service runs from Waterton Marina to Crypt Landing. You need to book in advance! My advice is to take the earliest trip, to allow the most time for the hike.
►Get directions on Google maps
Hiking trail description
The trail is good and well-marked. It’s reasonably high though, so be prepared for mountain weather (see what to bring below). There is no drinking water or shelter on the trail, nor anywhere to buy food.
The day starts with an early boat trip across Upper Waterton Lake — the deepest lake in the Canadian Rockies. You’ll need to get off fast at Crypt Landing to have the trail to yourself. But don’t be dismayed if you’re stuck behind a long line of hikers: it doesn’t take long before you pass the slower walkers (or get passed by the faster ones), at which point you’re more or less by yourself.
The trail begins in berry bushes and forest. After around 400 m, you’ll reach a fork — the regular trail on the right and one via Hellroaring Falls to the left. The dude on the boat will have already told you to take the regular trail on the way up and the Hellroaring Falls trail on the way down.
So, continuing on the main trail, you climb through the forest to a fabulous view over Upper Waterton Lake.
The trail flattens out as you turn up Crypt Valley, a long forested valley leading up to the infamous cliff. After a while you come out of the forest to an impressive view of Burnt Rock Falls.
From here the trail climbs steeply up the valley side through subalpine terrain — with lots of ground squirrels. You’ll start to see Crypt Falls ahead, tumbling down the cliff face at the end of the valley between Vimy Ridge and Mount Boswell. A bit further along, a beautiful emerald lake comes into view far below on the valley floor. And behind stretches Crypt Valley, flanked on either side by rocky peaks. The views make the climb well worthwhile!
Now comes the adventure part. At the end of the valley you traverse a steep, rocky section to get to the cliff — and the ladder. I was expecting (hoping for?) a long ladder bolted to a vertical cliff face with nothing below… but in reality it’s just a few rungs leaning against the rock, on a ledge. Seriously not dangerous at all.
The ladder leads to the 20-m cave, which is a little uncomfortable to crawl through but also not dangerous. Then come the chains across the final cliff section. These may be the most alarming part if you haven’t done many alpine walks — but while this section is exposed, it’s only short and very unlikely that you would actually fall.
Nearly there now! A flat walk to the top of Crypt Falls — where you can take a detour to peer over the cliff back down the valley — one last short climb, and you’ll reach beautiful Crypt Lake. And all the faster walkers.
Most people stay around the north end of the lake, but you can walk the entire way around — stepping into the USA at the southern end. Just make sure you leave in time to get back before the last boat back to Waterton! Factor in that there may be a queue to get back across the chains, through the tunnel and down the ladder. The Hellraising Falls detour is steeper and rockier than the regular trail, with a pretty view of the creek. I didn’t think it was that great, so if you’re pressed for time you can skip this partial loop without missing much.
Where to stay & eat
Waterton is the only town in the national park, and has several hotels and restaurants. There’s also the large Townsite Campground at the southern end — it has showers and other facilities, but is not very pretty. Book early to get a spot!
Crandell Mountain Campground, where we stayed, is a bit out of Waterton but much nicer. It has toilets and water but no showers. The tent sites are first come first served. There’s also Belly River Campground in the east of the park, and nine wilderness campgrounds that you can only walk to.
Booking & other information on camping in Waterton Lakes National Park
Note: Crandell Mountain Campground was closed after the 2017 fire. Check here for updates.
What to bring
You shouldn’t need any special equipment to do the hike during the main season from end June to early September. The boat still runs in May and until early October, but there may be snow on the track. Be aware that this is an alpine area, so even in summer you must be prepared for sudden changes in weather.
Essential:
- Good walking shoes
- Water- and windproof clothing
- Warm clothing, according to the season and forecast
- Water
- Food
- Sunscreen
- Hat
- Hiking poles
Dangers & annoyances
- Bears: Waterton Lakes National Park is home to both grizzly and brown bears. And the lower parts of the Crypt Lake trail are lined with their favorite food: berries. You’re unlikely to encounter a bear given the number of people on the trail, but even so, you need to be bear aware. In a nutshell, walk as a group, make noise to alert any bears to your presence, carry bear spray — and know how to use it. I’m not a bear expert though, so be sure to get real advice (also for other animal encounters in the park).
- Fires: Canada suffers from wildfires in summer — and one went through Waterton Lakes National Park not long after we were there. Check here for trail statuses after that fire, and with the visitor center for current conditions when you’re there.
- Sunburn: Apply plenty of sunscreen every two hours — and even better, cover up as much skin as possible.
- Heat stroke/dehydration: It was hot when we did the hike, and you’re out in the sun a lot of the time. Wear a hat and make sure you bring enough water for the weather conditions.
- Hypothermia/exposure: The weather could also quickly turn cold — and windy.
- Snow: There may be snow on the trail in late spring and early autumn. Check the trail conditions at the visitor center or the boat company.
- Stomach bugs: It’s not recommended to drink river, stream or lake water due to E. coli and other nasty bugs.
Hiking trail map
The map app didn’t have the alternative trail via Hellraising Falls, but it’s well signposted so you won’t miss it.
(gpx download under the map)